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late december.
the surf sucked this morning, so i fucked about with my camera.love the gradient belowsand doesn't usually look like this around here.seal scapuladavenport miscreant, zapsuitbranches
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greg's photos from early Jan.
thank you greg, you really know how to take photos. cheyne it was great to meet you.
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love me the late january crispy kind.
got to the waters edge at dark. sat there and listened to the low tide pools lap against the grainy said. hadn't felt peace like that in a while. paddled out and was all alone for about 5 waves. that...
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late januarary bu.
cracked the bu this morning. super small clean kind. scored a few rib-cage high ones, peeled for days. Â stoked to feel my board on a different wave. so rad. got the f-ck outta there before all the...
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chazerdous and the way of the butterknife
i sold ye ole butter knife today. she was the one that taught me the way of the trim. my buddy colin from matagorda wanted to take a picture of me one day after i scored some clean off shores with this...
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LUAU 6 !!!!!!!!!!!
well, here we go. stoked to be able to pull another one. what a year it's been!! (we have new member to the family arriving by the time this goes down.) i'm so grateful for the support from my wife for...
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dan shred
dan stopped by after picking up his new feral pig "olive". we had a super rad sesh. yeah danny boy!!!
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early late april
the shot below is the moon this morning before is sunk below the horizon. my hand shook some. still though, i like the photo.i tried to steady my hand some.the surf was phenomenal today. i was so...
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