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...projects...


...pig stuffing...

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og style, patch secure

i'm gunna blast a run of the above image , patch style. big. i'll be pimping them on this page whence they're real.


want the best pig ever to be made, ever? contact bing surfboards (info@bingsurfboards.com). ask for a feral pig. for real.

here we go

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i can see fall in the way the sun shines in the morning. i smelt fall the other day. i love the fall.

rabbit's fin

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i first met rabbit and junko a few years ago. they came to california for a surf trip. rabbit had a hurt ankle but he walked all the way down to sliders with junko and met up with me. it was a clean un-crowded day. we had breakfast together and have stayed in touch. rabbit is my japan surfapig correspondent!!! my good friend chris of poafilms is over in japan right now. before chris left for japan, i asked him if he'd hand deliver the fin to rabbit. he honored my request. it's so rad to know rabbit is just as enthusiastic about pigs as i am. i was very happy to give this fin to him. it comes off a Lance Carson board i had shaped back in 1999 or 2000. the story goes back further though. back in 1996 i was walking on the beach at deveraux looking for sea glass in the tide pools. i found a Lance Carson rake style fin all covered with barnacles and tangled in sea grass and kelp. i took the fin home, sanded it and replaced the busted metal pin. i used that fin in a few of my logs that had boxes. it turned a couple of them into magic boards. in particular it made this one log Matt Moore had shaped me into an amazing board. eventually the magic oozing from that newly found old washed up Carson fin made me feel like i needed a Lance Carson board. So finally in 1999 or 2000 i got my Carson. Rabbit's newly acquired fin was glassed into it. Lance's cabinet making buddy built the fin for Lance. I surfed that board with this fin glassed in it for about 8 years . The board was great. I recall many of fond sessions on it, from it's maiden voyage at sandspit, to epic days at rincon, malibu and Chinese harbor out on the islands. eventually i wanted to see what that magic fin i found would do to my carson. it felt like i was breaking some fundamental law of the universe... cutting rabbit's fin off my carson. but i have always lived like a crazy person at times. the fin is cut off, the box is dropped in, the board isn't made any more magical. kind of like ..."huh?" i ended up trading the carson board with the rake fin in it for a wing nosed jim philips pig. such is the way of SAMSARA. super stoked my buddy chris delivered this token of friendship to my good buddies rabbit and junko!
below junko is surfing
below rabbit is surfing
below is me on that Matt Moore log with the magic Carson fin in it. Tatsuo Takei shot this of me at rincon, back in '98 or there about.

@barnacle_ahoy 's fresh @deadkooks 9'9"

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me brethren casanova sorted this epic sled from eden. 9'9" 224 pig. casanova and eden's colab. SICK.

good morning thursday.

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caught a few fun ones yesterday.


yater

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back in '96 i moved to santa barbara. i only lived there 5 years. in that time, i surfed a ton of epic waves, and met a grip of people that shaped my life forever. plummer, klemman, the potter brothers, jeremy and seth of the beach house, hilbers, brom, cooper, and hatzikien (among others). plummer intoduced me to seth that introduced me to brom that introduced me to the crew of legendary surfers that inhabited the "funk zone". i was surfing the point and hanging at the beach house when i wasn't reading and writing theoretical maths. eventually clyde beatty wanted an inexperienced newbee to huff resin in his glass shop. i enthusiastically requested and environment that wold rot the effort i had been putting into my mind, and perhaps slowly rot my cells. i started working at clyde's. hot coating and routing fin boxes. that was so great. i would study math and surf all day, help build boards at night. during that time, i was hanging with brom a ton. we build his "surfenginez" website. that was rad. i was surfing the shit out of brom's 5'11's and gene and tyler's logs. i was stoked to get to know mr. rich in the capacity i was. also i helped skip landscape his yard. that was an honor. most of all, i got so see ferndod quite a bit. those days were amazing. dan and i would show up early in the morning and see ferner lurking in the bushes checking the point, we'd end up beside him coughing after smoke had gone into our lungs. the best part of those sessions was seeing mr. white out in the water. i'd paddle up to him and say: "mr. white"... he'd return a : "mr. black". shit was all time. while spending time at beatty's factory, i saved it from burning down after gramuel dam and john botched a roofing job. john had cooked the roof too hot and thought shit was good to go. he split over to lauren's rig to grab a template. i showed up to see if gramuel wanted to shred later. i saw no one up there, and a roof burning. my luck of looking for gramuel saved the day. shit was crazy. now looking back, some of the craziest stuff was the fact that renny and lauren were the backbone of it all. renny built that stuff. the roots of renny go so far back. i've never even rode a board renny shaped that felt good to my surfing style. i've owned one (the floating drifting seacucmber) , and rode a few of my friend's. regardless, in that time...renny and i didn't become friends. he asked me a few questions once. when i was around him, i didn't feel like he was some big time guy. it was like he was just an average man. he lives honestly and cares about his thing. if he would have been a flower grower, he'd have approached it the same way. he is a genuine person.  i am honored and humbled to have the life experiences i do. seeing these pictures of renny speak to me.


i love october.

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hello monday. today's session was glorious. wide open faces. one could really gain an understanding for their board today. super stoked. needed this session. scored some PERFECT ones. so STOKED.
love after noon sessions.
seriously.
bout to get this made. art wizard jason_c_arnold is finishing this patch up. PSYCHED.


hello thursday. hello tatsuo takei

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i blasted this monday, still un-molested thursday. shocking.
early this week, i realized i'd have today off from work. i checked the weather, checked the surf... felt like the universe was coming together in some magical way. i half expected to see a unicorn walk out from the bushes prior to me paddling out.
snapped the pic below while i was almost tearing my wetsuit trying to get it on as quick as possible.
came in from my sesh to take a few pics for a sec.
my thinking unicorns were going to come out of the bushes had everyting to do with 1) being a father of a 4 year old daughter... 2) realizing my great friend Tatsuo Takei was about to show up and shoot this session. for the un-initiated, tatsuo is a MEAN shredder. a proper traditionalist of the old school. i first met tatsuo 18 years ago when he took a photo of matt plummer and i at the queen. two decades.
tatsuo spends time here and in japan. he is working on some AMAZING projects. 4 projects that i know of that are NEXT level shit. and he is a sage of patience. an amazing human. he apprenticed under mr. grannis and uses the same equipment mr. grannis did for shooting photos.
tatsuo has me involved in one of his projects. i am psyched. honored.
kordory and the surfers journal did a little piece on tatsuo. here it is below.

blue panel blasting!!!

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chris of P.O.A. films shot this back in june.i was so enamored with this blue panel board then. i was feeling the design of it. everything about an old no-name board that carried a significant amount of momentum appealed to me. shortly after this video was shot, i got back on my trusted old friend , mr. feral pig. i recall getting back on my feral pig and having my mind blown. it's amazing how old is new and new is old at times. super stoked on this footage. thanks chris!!

david town, ricky muniz and the flothru d-fin skeg pig fin

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these pictures of david town's fins are in reverse order of development... makes for thought. what follows is: how these fins came back into the spot light. and a few words on their perceived function on a 10' marc andreini shaped surf board. also, a few words on their upcoming availability for fin boxes. surfapig.com is the first site to offer these fins for sale.
back in 1996 i went into santa barbara's beach house surf shop and saw one of marc's boards hanging up with this style fin.
after i released INVASION! from planet C marc came into my life. i was so humbled, as i had seen his boards while experiencing decades of santa barbara and san francisco surf. it turns out marc is an enthusiast of cheeky humor and "not taking surfing seriously".  a glorious union. prior to my involvement with bing surfboards, i had ordered a board from marc. the original board i ordered wasn't the one this fin came on. the second one was. ... enter BLACKSTOKE II. thank you marc andreini for enriching my life. thank you roger (of beach house) for having the OWL hanging from the ceiling. so stoked my mind works the way it does. i saw this fin, remembered who was associated with the label , waited for the appropriate time... BAM!!!
david town is a maker.
david's scetch in honor of marc's design.
my experience on this fin design is directly associated with surfboard that is somewhat of a "malibu chip" design. or not. not sure how to call it. what it is... is the "blackstoke II", psyched on its performance. the board, combined with the fin, is pure butter. it is a known fact that butter makes EVERYTHING better. except arteries.


i digress... it is my perception, from my experiences, that this fin contributes to a board's performance in the following ways: it functions as a "normal" fin while in trim. it functions as a "normal" fin going into and out of turns. the flothru fin holds my 200 + pound frame on the nose with confidence. one thing i have noticed is : a feeling when implementing an exaggerated stall bottom turn. while experiencing this, the flothru stalls easily. my feral pig takes a serious commitment to achieve what the flothru blackstokeII achieves effortlessly.  conversely, one could say my bing feral pig has more drive. yet, i can't say my blackstoke II lacks drive.

david town and ricky muniz are making these fins currently. to some, it might seem strange that two different people are making these fins. i don't think so. after i got blackstoke II from marc back in april of 2012, david inquired about the fin. he made one. this was summer of 2012, as i recall. time passes. i ride this board on and off for 2 years. enter summer 2014. ricky got a hold of it, and it inspired him. he goes back to puerto rico. he hand crafted and glassed on one of these fins to an AMAZING board. around the time ricky is making his board, i am writing an article. writing the article inspires me to tighten up this webpage and change things up a bit. i ask david to make the flothru fin for sale on surfapig, and i ask him to make my "Phi-n" (more on this later) that i designed. now as time goes, two amazing craftsmen are making these fins. david and ricky's fin must be different. as i believe neither of them "copied" marc's. marc's fin is a muse for these fins. i am honored to know both of these gentlemen. i am psyched to offer these fins on my site. i am super psyched to be running one in my bing feral pig. i can't wait to switch between my "Phi-n" a flotrhu in the same session!!!


the photos below were poached from ricky's i.g. feed. they show his fin and board in his waters. NICE!!!!


i'll post up here and on instagram when the flothru and the Phi-n are available for sale.

recent fall happenings.

friends.

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stoked on these shots Bryan Timm shot. they are of two of my favorite people surfing. here is shredular_dystrophy shredding some pig.
these next two are of legendary lens-smith Tatsuo Takei. except this time Tatsuo is in front of the lens.
love this one!!
shredular , lining up the swine.
the davenport below is the board shredular was shredding. shredular says the following about the board: "it's a board a friend and I templated back in 2006 out of a 10'8" blank. i think the pig is 10'3" or something.wide point way back.noserides unreal in pocket waves. cuts back well, very natural. very easy to ride."



happy friday

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this morning i surfed with my good buddy.
that is always fun.

i got this jean jacket that is turning into a patch horde.

the foiled fall wallet boost job

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surf was fun.
my boy dan and i scored for hours.


below is the scene of the crime.  dan and i paddle out at dark. around 5:50, i paddle in to grab my camera out of my bag to shoot some shots of dan shredding. i was obligated to go in at this point in the sesh. as if there were something forcing me to go in. at the time i thought it was the amazing display of gorgeous colors and happenings. i knew there wasn't quite enough light, yet the colors were too rad not to go and grab the camera.  as i was riding a wave in , near the shore, i notice a dark shadowy figure sitting on the bench straddleing my bag. there was another figure over by dan's bag. this caught me off guard as the whole time we were surfing , i didn't see anyone on the beach. 'course it was fairly dark. but i was being observant. these guys must of lurked up the bushes , or hugged the estuary. regardless, there were no other humans in the water, or on the beach. then, at dusk, as i am looking for my bag i find some guy straddling my bag with his hand dangling in the top of it. more over, i know this guy very well. i know where he works. i know how old he is. i know he is 57 years old, and i know he has a daughter and and grand child. i've had pleasant interactions with this guy for the past 7 years. his accomplice is somewhat new to me. i've seen him around lately.
i walk up to where my bag is. i say to the robber: "what's up ?" he replies "hows the surf?" , i put my board down and reach down in-between this fellas legs to grab my bag. awkward. i say "i need my shit". i grab my bag, thinking "what the fuck?!" i place the bag by my feet a few yards from where it used to be. it seems unmolested. i say "it's all right" in regards to the thief's question about the quality of the surf. he then asks, "is that a new board?" i respond "nope." his friend had got up and walked away when i dropped my board prior to grabbing my bag. at this point he is showing back up. he sits down, as i am going through my bag, checking the contents, making sure all is there, and grabbing my camera out of my bag. this accomplice guy sits down and pipes up with a "you should know better". i respond "i should know better?" he says "yeah, this beach is wide open and you put your shit here?!" i respond with "exactly, it IS wide open. i did put my shit here." he goes on with "you should know better." i'm all "i should know better?" he's all "look man, i'm just saying. some of the guys around here aren't so nice. we built this shack. don't put your shit here." at this point i'm thinking "you fool. you criminal minded scumbag. you are admitting i caught y'all dirtbags red handed from purposefully targeting my boy and i." simultaneously i am thinking, i want to get out of this situation with neither of them thinking i got beef with them. i want them to feel like they win the pissing match. last thing i need is to have my beautiful surf spot feel like an unsafe place. i'm thinking about how to give these scum-suckers the belief that they have accomplished what their foiled scheme would have (in their minds) accomplished. of course the knee jerk reaction in this case is to yell, make threats, and more than likely acquire bloody knuckles. although that might have made things feel "right" at that moment, i believe that would have ultimately created a terrible scene. it's funny how i can be logical in this situation, but find it very difficult to be logical in situations where my girls are threatened. so i respond to this guy "whats your name?" he tells me a name, i try to remember it, but as i type this i can't remember the name he said exactly. i do remember the fellas name that i caught red handed trying to boost MY shit. after all every time i surf with this fella we talk about all kinds of pleasant stuff. had i not gone in to grab my camera, and they had actually pulled off their vile despicable effort, i'd of NEVER pegged this guy as the guy that boosted my shit. ever. CRAZY.
so, after i ask for the accomplice's name i say " alright, i hear you. you're right. i haven't built this shack, i don't ever thrash it, but i have never built it." he's all "look man, you should know better. just don't put your shit here. i'm just saying." i respond with "what are you just sayin?" he's all "look man, not everyone around here is so nice" i respond with "so, what... if i leave my shit here, then something is going to happen. it's like that?!" hes like "i'm just saying, not everyone around here is so nice." i say "thanks for the heads up." i grab my bag and my buddy's bag, and walk them down the beach. paddle back out and proceed to have one of the best sessions this fall.
i was stoked i didn't let this experience harsh our mello. i feel liked i learned something about the people around me. i'm curious to see how the rest of this season plays out.


scored some fun waves at sano later in the day with my beautiful wife.



hodge podge, nor east bit.

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2/3 of these pics have the nor east embedded in them.




good friends, epic waves... and great plastic!

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my boy ricky muniz took the photos. not only is ricky a mean shredder, amazing (start to finish) board builder, and fantastic human...he is also a lens-smith. bravo! below are a few of the highlights. just doing what we do, when we do it.
channeling my inner "casanova pelvic tip jib!!"
can't quite tell if i'm trying to stall, or cut back or just flaunt my supremely cultivated IPA gut.
when the photos were taken, i had been gunnin this board / wetsuit combo for 45 months. that's 3 years 9 months for the unit conversion challenged. in other words, my BING FERAL PIG and my ZAP! wetsuit have been giving me love for a LONG time. i trip on it. i am so grateful for the quality products I have received from my good friends at ZAP! and BING over the years. they have DIRECTLY contributed to my pleasure in life. and that brings balance to the rest of my life. i am in debt. i don't know any person that sports the same wetsuit and board for that long, and have their products in the condition mine are in. i never put my board in a bag. i rarely rinse my suite.
little trim.




what a week!

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almost got robbed sunday, got pink eye monday, left work early tuesday, went to sano wednesday, back to work thursday, had my first car collision in 26 years of driving friday (in my work parking lot of all places!) scored the clean shit saturday morning.



this pic below is classic. the house i am parked in front of is "the gold dust lady's" house. a stevie nicks enthusiast judging from her license plate frame. she H A T E S my van. she has been trying to slander me to all the neighbors. they've told her to calm down. we are currently in a feud for this parking spot. i took this picture , so when i move, i'll print it on a post card and send it to her.
today was fun. crisp clean kind with a god friend. Y E S.

sunday

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lazy bottom turns, floppy head dips, man turns...repeat.

mr 7029

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so stoked on this. there are major changes going on right now. we have been in the process of selling and buying a house for a WHILE, and it looks like that is about to be a done deal. i am so spyched on our new location. next level kind. i have been working with david town on these fins. matt just got this board to me. i got this project that will be published before too long. got the ptaches about to hit soon. family is good, work is good. STOKED!!!!


these fins will be looking bright and opaque once we get beyond the prototype testing stage.

loving the eyes on this one!!
i've always wanted a pig with a cigar band.






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